Outdoor Table

If you watch the YouTube video I have for this table (here), you will notice that I am starting with an existing table. The directions below are for building the table from scratch. 

Originally I built the table with not enough support. I spent only an afternoon on it, and I had a lovely table that felt really really strong. Fast forward a few years and it was starting to get pretty wobbly and creaky, plus it had totally greyed out since I didn't put any finish on it at all. So, I pulled it apart, added some more substance to it and refinished it while I was at it. It is solid as a rock now. My husband said it feels like it is planted in the ground. Plus, for and added bonus the horizontal piece that runs near the ground works great as a foot rest. 

I have a YouTube video for the matching benches, the bar stool and the bar.

Here is the shopping list:

6 - Pine 2x4's 8 ft long

2 - Pine 4x4's 8 ft long

6 - Redwood 2x6's 8 ft long

2.5" long exterior screws. 

Titebond III Outdoor wood glue

Black acryllic paint

Water based urethane (to cover the black paint)

Boiled Lindseed oil (for the top)

1" plastic sliders

Cut List:

4 - 4x4's - 27" 

1 - 2x4 - 27" 

4 - 2x4's - 20" 

2 - 2x4's - 84"

2 - 2x4's - 23" (but cut to fit)

2 - 2x4's - 87" (but cut to fit)

Tools I used:

Circular Saw

Drill

Kreg Pocket Hole jig

Orbital Sander

Speed Square

Tape Measure

Step 1: 

Start by assembling the frame. Take 1 4x4 leg and attach 2 of the 2x4's that are 20" long with 2.5" pocket hole screws. The top board is flush with the top of the 4x4, and the bottom board is 1.5" from the bottom of the 4x4. And both boards are 0.5" in from the edge of the 4x4. (You can use a scrap piece of 2x4 as a spacing block for the bottom 2x4.)

step 1 in outdoor table diy build

Step 2:

Add another 4x4 to the other side of the 2x4's making sure to keep the 0.5" spacing from the outside of the legs and the 1.5" spacing from the lower 2x4 and the ground.

step 2 in diy outdoor table build

Step 3:

Make a duplicate side panel and turn it around for the other side, making sure to falways keep the pocket holes facing inward.

step 3 in diy outdoor table build

Step 4:

Attach  84" long 2x4's as the side rails with 2.5" pocket hole screws, with the pocket holes facing inward.

step 4 in diy outdoor table build

Step 5:

Mount the 2x4 (27") table leg centered between the 23" supports and use pocket holes to attach the 2x4's to the frame. The pocket holes here wont be seen here since it will be under the table, so you can orient the pocket holes facing outward to make it easier to reach. And for the 2x4 leg, I just used the same 2.5" screws from the outside, no pocket holes. 

step 5 in outdoor table build

Step 6: 

Add the 87" long 2x4's near the bottom of the frame. These two pieces are 1.5" off the ground, so I used scrap 2x4's to hold them at the proper height while I screwed them in from the outside. I couldn't find a good way to use pocket holes here to hide the screws. Also, This will be painted so they will hardley be visible anyway. But you could always countersink the holes and plug them if you want to hide the screws.

step 6 of diy outdoor table build

Step 7:

Paint the entire frame with black acryllic paint. I just use the cheapest black paint I can find. Usually only needs one coat. Once that is dry, give it a coat of water base polyurethane to protect it. 

While it is flipped upsidedown I attach 1" (1.5" is fine)  plastic sliders for furniture. I get mine at Ace Hardware. And I use 1.5" exterior screws to attach them. The end grain of wood acts like a straw and will suck water up into the legs and will eventually rot the legs. With these little feet, it raises the wood off the ground enough that shouldn't even be sitting in water.

step 7 in diy outdoor table build

Step 8:

The table top is one of the easiest parts to build, but most time consuming. No cutting involved! The 2x6's are 8 ft long and just get screwed together as is. Find a nice large flat spot to work. I use my cement patio. Glue and pocket hole all the boards together with at least 7 screws per board. Once dry, flip it over and sand it. Start with 80 grit, and go to at least 150, perhaps 220.  Wipe off the dust. You can put into onto the frame now, yay! But don't screw it on yet. Gravity will definitely hold it in place for a while.

Next mix mineral spirits and boiled lindseed oil, at about a 50/50 ratio, and use a rag to apply it to the table top. WARNING!!! Read the label on the boiled lindseed oil. It's great stuff for outdoor furniture, but if you wad up the use rag and throw it in the garbage, it might catch fire. It needs to be left flat or hanging smoothly to dry. I usually leave it over a rod for several days. It might not take several days, I just usually forget about it.

I wait a day and apply a coat of 100% boiled lindseed oil. 

Wait another day then screw it to the frame from underneath with 2.5" pocket hole screws.

step 8 in diy outdoor table build

Step 9: 

Have a big dinner and enjoy it! Send me photos too! I love seeing everyone's builds and the tweaks that make it their own.

Happy Building!